It was high tide last night at Toronto’s Fairmont Royal York hotel as thirteen of Ontario’s best chefs went ladle to ladle during the Vancouver Aquarium’s Ocean Wise Chowder Chowdown. The issues that continue to trouble our marine environment played a supporting role to the star chefs who were present to help raise several thousand dollars for this annual Ocean Wise fundraising event.
Capacity crowd out for Ocean Wise Chowder Chowdown, Imperial Room, Fairmont
There were thirteen chowders to dip into and more than fifty ways to describe my delight as I made my way through the wide variations on a chowder theme. Among the sustainable seafood chowder ingredients were: manilla clams, diver scallops, halibut, spot prawns, line caught salmon and Dungeness crab.
The tasty and thoughtful selections were all mindful of how chefs are now being challenged as they feed fish to an ever-growing population. Each of their product selections took overfishing, bycatch and habitat damage into consideration.
Flavour profiles ranged from: Kristin Donovan’s (Hooked Inc.) creamy B.C. oyster chowder; to the light dashi based halibut and scallop chowder simmered by Chef Takayuki Sato of the new College Street restaurant, Hapa Izakaya; plus a squash based chowder featuring a surf and turf pairing by Chef Ponzo of Le Select Bistro and finally the more traditional leek, potato, cream, butter and wine chowder of Chef Amira Becarevic of EPIC at the Fairmont Royal York hotel.
By the time I reached competitor Kristin Donovan’s oyster chowder, featuring Fanny Bay oysters of Naniamo, B.C., I was on my eighth chowder sample and confident that I had already selected my favourite. In the moments to follow it was Donovan’s perfect pairing of ingredients that had me asking for seconds. This chowder was the true winner in my mouth. Perhaps as the proprietor of the boutique fish market, Hooked Inc. she had a competitive advantage in obtaining the best of Ocean Wise certified supply. That aside, it was Donovan’s product knowledge and creativity that had heads and spoons turning. The chowder had a long creamy base, mixed with an oyster puree, spiked with a dash of what looked like a red wine vinegar, it was then layered over artichoke chips resting delicately on a single raw oyster at the bottom of my cup.
As the clock turned 9:00 p.m. the judging panel arrived at their collective decision and put forth Chef Albert Ponzo of Le Select Bistro as the sustainable champion of Toronto’s 2012 Vancouver Aquarium Chowder Chowdown. Chef Ponzo’s chowder stood out among the other twelve competitors for its sweet squash base and adventurous pairing of sausage to seafood. And finally, the much debated people’s choice award went to Chef Richard Baksh of Earl’s Kitchen and Bar for his rich bacon, clam, seafood and caviar chowder. It too was a deserving chowder. (pictured here)
Chef Baksh of Earl’s KItchen & Bar Takes the Ocean Wise People’s Choice Award
2012 Ocean Wise CHAMPION:
Le Select Bistro | 432 Wellington Street West, Toronto Chef: Albert Ponzo
Albert Ponzo has been the executive Chef of Toronto’s uber successful Le Select Bistro for 6 years. He mans the helm of the restaurant’s state of the art kitchen and is the creative force behind its modern rendition of classic French cuisine. Albert passionately supports local farmers working towards sustainability and producing healthier products and is an active member of the Slow Food movement. He is also an apiarist and owns and operates two bee hives.
2012 Oceanwise PEOPLE’S CHOICE:
Earls Kitchen and Bar | 150 King Street West, Toronto Chef: Richard Baksh
Chef Richard Baksh is currently the Head Chef of Earls Kitchen & Bar, King Street location. Originally from BC, Richard began his career cooking Mexican cuisine before joining Earls over a decade ago when he took a position at one of the BC locations as a line cook. His work ethic and dedication to fresh cuisine did not go unnoticed and he was quickly expedited through every station in the kitchen. After sharpening his cooking skills Richard was asked to become a regional trainer displaying the same dedication to people development as he did with producing great food and was eventually promoted to head chef. Baksh moved east with Earls as they expanded into Ontario and has since been a key part of Eastern team opening the King Street location as well as the newest location in London.
Judges:
Anthony Walsh | Corporate Executive Chef/Partner, Oliver and Bonacini Restaurants
Carl Heinrich | Partner/Executive Chef, Richmond Station & Top Chef Canada Season 2 Winner
Rebecca LeHeup | Executive Director, Ontario Culinary Tourism Alliance
Jamie Kennedy | Owner/Executive Chef, Jamie Kennedy Kitchens
Micah Donovan | The Food Jammers
Event MC:
Nobu Adilman | The Food Jammers
Featuring music from Black Mink.
*BEEGrrl is an Ocean Wise Advisory Board Member